The answer is that they are both good in the right situation. Rattle cans are great for when you are priming a lot of miniatures at once. If you assembled a few boxes of minions for your army and need to prime them all, use a rattle can. For an extended session, it is hard to beat the raw efficiency of this method. I keep an old piece of plywood in my garage specifically for large priming sessions.
I get it out and lay it on top of my garbage can. Then I bring out all of the models that I need to prime. I line them up evenly and have at them. You can see this method clearly in the video at the top of this article.
Clean up for a rattle can includes tipping it upside down and spraying until it sprays clear. Put the cap back on and put it away. Airbrush priming is great when you have bad weather, too hot, cold or raining etc. It is also good for very controlled applications for techniques such as Zenithal Priming. I use my airbrush to prime mostly when I am doing small batches.
The clean up for an airbrush takes much longer than it does for a rattle can. It involves taking the airbrush apart to clean all of the small working parts, but in the right situations, it is totally worth it.
Applying your primer in short bursts will help you to avoid building up too much primer. Also, if you give it a few minutes in between applying layers the tacky surface will help the next light layer to stick, resulting in using less primer overall.
A common mistake made by new painters is holding the can too close to your models. You should have between 9 and 12 inches 20 — 30 cm between the spray can and your model. This distance allows enough space for the paint to properly atomize and separate before landing on your model.
When the can is too close to the model the paint builds up very rapidly leading to runny paint that fills in all of the fine detail that is on your model. If your model looks even more like plastic after you painted it than it did when it was bare plastic, you have way too much paint on it.
Acrylic paint needs something to stick to, not only so it won't flake or chip off, but also so the paint can't move around as much as it dries. This is very important to avoid color rings that can appear when you wash or blend.
If you have ever painted a bright color over a dark primed miniature, you have experienced how difficult it is to get brilliant colors without priming with white or a very light color.
Also, you may find that it takes many coats of a dark color to obtain full coverage over a white or very light primer. The more coats that you apply, the more details get filled in. Some recommend priming with a gray color as a compromise between white and black.
In my experience, this isn't ideal. You can usually never get truly vibrant colors over gray, and even less so over black.
Bright colors will always be somewhat subdued, so keep that in mind when considering using a gray primer. If you want less saturated colors, you may want to paint over gray or black primer.
It really depends what look or color mood you want to achieve. Assuming that you paint with thinned acrylic paint which you should you will need to paint several coats over gray primer to get either bright or very dark colors. This often covers over details unless you're careful to apply very thin layers of paint and carefully prevent accumulation. Much more importantly when using acrylics, when painting over gray it's difficult to get the full dynamic range of bright and dark colors.
Your pieces may end up looking drab. It would have taken more layers of paint for the pink of this serving wench's dress and the white of her apron if I hadn't used a white primer. I didn't do much miniature painting for several years Curse you, World of Warcraft! In the meantime, gaudy circus colors thankfully fell out of fashion.
Realistic blends are now popular. Lifelike miniatures win awards. However, no matter your style, you still need to be able to obtain a full spectrum of color, from thinly applied brights to earth tones. OK, you may think, that's great for bright colors, but what about dark ones? Here's a key point. Light colors are far less opaque than darker ones. Dark paint covers over white primer far easier and with fewer coats than painting light colors over darker primer.
Standard primer doesn't always adhere well to plastic and resin miniatures. In recent years, Krylon developed a primer dedicated to spray painting plastic. Specially formulated primers will adhere well to plastic. So you get why you should prime your miniatures. But how do you do actually prime or spray miniatures?? The nozzle should work, so the paint comes out evenly.
You can ensure this by cleaning the nozzle after each use: Hold the can upside down. Then keep spraying until no more paint comes out. Another important thing: Keep the distance that is instructed on the can. Most spray-on cans have instructions printed on their side. They tell you what you need to do and what not do. This includes the distance at which the can should be held. The right distance is about 20 to 30 cm about a foot.
If you hold the can too close, the primer will be spread unevenly or still be wet when it lands on the miniature. The instructions also tell you how long you need to shake the can before starting to spray. You should probably shake it longer than you think. Most companies recommend shaking it about a minute before starting to spray, and always in-between spray works. Most cans also have a little metal ball in them to ensure the paint is evenly mixed.
You should be hearing the click-clack sound of that metal ball when shaking the paint can. Another trick lies in spraying before the nozzle is pointed at the miniature. This way, you can control the air and paint flow a lot better. You can also make sure that any build-up that was stuck in the nozzle got out before it landed on your miniature.
Use quick and short sweeps for spraying. Once you covered one side like the front, you can turn your miniature around. Gently do the other side. You should avoid touching the miniature at all. I stick my miniatures on something with sticky tac or on a metal plate with magnets. If you missed a spot while layer-primer, that is no big deal. If you want to, just use another layer of primer to cover everything. There is also another method for really heard to reach parts. You can just leave them be with spray primer.
Just cover them up later on with some paint, before starting your actual paint works on the figure. Some of those hard to reach spots can be on the underside of the mini. These can include feet, bag bottoms or the rather non-visible side of the arm.
Always check if your miniature has those tricky parts covered. You may even lay it down to check, but only when it is completely dried. As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases. The question is which one to choose and which one is the best? My own experience For the last few days I was priming around HDF terrain kits and some plastic GW models with some cheap and cheap-ish primers.
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