The clutch slave cylinder operates just like a hydraulic cylinder on a boom lift. The cylinder is connected to the clutch master cylinder located on the firewall next to the brake master cylinder through a hose.
The clutch is slipping because the lining on the clutch plate is worn thin. If it is an older vehicle with riveted clutch linings the pressure-plate and flywheel might be also scored by the rivets. There is a chance that the pressure plate might also need replacing.
If the clutch slave cylinder develops any sort of leak internally or externally it may cause the pedal to feel spongy or mushy. The pedal may also sink all the way to the floor and stay there when depressed, and may not be able to properly disengage the clutch so the transmission can be safely shifted.
The cylinder may get dirty if its inner seals are damaged or worn out, causing contamination of the fluid. Noisy Engagement. If you are at a light with the brake on and the car in gear you may hear a loud noise as you hold down the clutch pedal. Checking a clutch system The clutch master cylinder is usually found on the bulkhead next to the brake cylinder. Usually each cylinder is directly in front of its pedal, so the clutch cylinder is the one on the right as you look from the front of the car.
Clutch Pedal Feels Loose or Spongey. Clutch Pedal is Hard to Engage. Begin typing your search term above and press enter to search. Press ESC to cancel. Skip to content Home Thanksgiving How do you change a clutch slave cylinder? Ben Davis April 10, How do you change a clutch slave cylinder? If you replace either a master or a slave cylinder , buy one of the same manufacture, and be absolutely sure you get the right model or an approved successor.
The clutch master cylinder is usually found on the bulkhead next to the brake cylinder. Usually each cylinder is directly in front of its pedal, so the clutch cylinder is the one on the right as you look from the front of the car. Brakes with servo assistance See Replacing a master cylinder and servo unit may have a different arrangement, but it should be clear which cylinder is which.
If the clutch fluid is low, look all over both master and slave cylinders and the pipe that connects them for signs of a leak. Pull back the lip of the dust cover on both cylinders. If there is hydraulic fluid inside the cover the piston seal is worn or damaged or the cylinder may be scored. If you can find no trace of a leak, fitting a complete service kit to both cylinders may cure the trouble. If the fluid level is normal but the clutch 'drags' will not disengage properly , and particularly if the pedal feels spongy, there is air in the system.
Bleed the system See Bleeding the clutch. Set a container to catch any fluid that runs out when you remove the cylinder, and protect paintwork with plastic sheeting or absorbent rags. Unscrew the pipe union nut and lift the pipe clear, taking care not to bend or damage it. Step 2: Get your drip pan and place it under the slave cylinder. Remove the plastic bag from the clutch hydraulic line.
Step 3: Bleed the hydraulic line to slave cylinder. Have a helper press the clutch pedal and hold it. Loosen the bleeder screw up and let the air out of the system. Tighten the bleeder screw and have the helper release the clutch pedal.
You may need to perform the bleeding procedure a couple more time to remove all air. Tighten up the bleeder screw tight. Step 4: Top off brake fluid. Remove the reservoir cap and top brake fluid off to the full line.
Step 1: Install entire system. Very carefully, install the entire system clutch master cylinder, hydraulic line, and slave cylinder down through the engine compartment.
Step 2: Install the slave cylinder. Step 4: Install mounting nuts. Torque them down to the specifications that will be given in the package. Step 6: Install a new cotter pin. Install it in the anchor pin on the clevis attached to the clutch master cylinder push rod with a pair of needle nose plyers. Step 7: Install mounting insulated clamps. Go back to the engine compartment and install all mounting insulated clamps that mount the hydraulic line to the vehicle.
Step 8: Raise the vehicle. Step Lower the vehicle to where all four wheels are on the ground. Pull out the jack and put it aside. Step 1: Make sure that the transmission is in neutral.
Turn on the ignition key and start the engine. Step 2: Press down on the clutch pedal. Move the gear shifter to a selection of your choice. The shifter should slide easily into the gear selected. Shut the engine off when you are done with the test. Step 3: Drive the vehicle around the block. During the test drive change gears from first gear to the top gear one at a time.
Step 4: Press the clutch pedal down. Do this when moving from the selected gear to neutral. Step 5: Press the clutch pedal down again. Do this when moving from the neutral position to another gear selection.
This is process is called double clutching. This insures that the transmission has little to no power from the engine with the clutch disengaged properly. The process is to prevent clutch damage and transmission gear damage.
If you do not hear any grinding and the shifting feels smooth from one gear to another, then the clutch master cylinder has been fixed correctly. If you cannot engage the transmission into any gear without grinding or if the clutch pedal will not move, then there may be further diagnosis of the clutch pedal assembly or a possible transmission failure.
If the problem persists, then you should seek out help from one of our certified mechanic that can inspect the clutch and transmission and diagnosis the problem. This article originally appeared on YourMechanic. Autoblog is partnering with YourMechanic to bring many of the repair and maintenance services you need right to you.
Get service at your home or office 7 days a week with fair and transparent pricing. We get it. Ads can be annoying. Low fluid in the reservoir can make it difficult for the clutch slave cylinder to perform.
Check for any leaks in the system. To replace both cylinders takes roughly 8 hours. If the clutch slave cylinder develops any sort of leak internally or externally it may cause the pedal to feel spongy or mushy. The pedal may also sink all the way to the floor and stay there when depressed, and may not be able to properly disengage the clutch so the transmission can be safely shifted.
The clutch slave cylinder can go bad over time after being used every time you depress the clutch. Signs that your clutch slave cylinder need to be replaced include: You are not able to change gears when you are driving. Brake fluid is leaking around the clutch pedal. Low or contaminated fluid in the reservoir is another symptom commonly associated with a problem with the clutch slave cylinder.
Low fluid can be caused by leaks in the system, and perhaps at the slave or master cylinders. There are two types of clutches—hydraulic and cable-operated. Most cars these days are hydraulic, so they rely on fluid pressure from the clutch master cylinder to actuate the clutch slave cylinder.
Age and wear can cause the seals to fail and this can happen either internally or externally.
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